Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 2000 · 11 citations · 13 references
Natural SciencesOceanographyCoastal EngineeringOcean WavesPropagationSea Surface RoughnessSurface Roughness EffectsSurface Wave DynamicsAnemometer MeasurementsBed RoughnessEulerian Drift AnalysisFlume HydraulicsLaboratory Flume ExperimentsProgressive WavesRoughnessWave Effects
The results are reported of an experimental study of the Eulerian time-mean drift induced by progressive water waves over rough beds. Measurements were made in a laboratory flume with a laser Doppler anemometer, and two different two-dimensional artificial bed roughnesses were investigated. The measurements show that the maximum value of the time-mean drift velocity at the bed may be increased or decreased relative to the value predicted by Longuet-Higgins' theory for smooth beds. For a certain range of parameters, near-bed mean drift in the opposite direction to that of the wave propagation was observed.
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