Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1971 · 192 citations · 15 references
Natural SciencesOcean EngineeringOceanographyDifferential EquationsFluid DynamicsOcean WavesNonlinear Wave DynamicsSurface Wave DynamicsWave Energy DissipationDissipationDissipative ProcessesKdv EquationKorteweg - De Vries EquationShallow Water WavesShallow-water HydrodynamicsSoliton PropagationSoliton Theory
A comparison of laboratory experiments in a shallow-water tank driven by an oscillating piston and numerical solutions of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation show that the latter can accurately describe slightly dissipative wavepropagation for Ursell numbers ( h 1 L 2 / h 0 3 ) up to 800. This is an input-output experiment, where the initial condition for the KdV equation is obtained from upstream (station 1) data. At a downstream location, the number of crests and troughs and their phases (or relative locations within a period) agree quantitatively with numerical solutions. The crest-to-trough amplitudes disagree somewhat, as they are more sensitive to dissipative forces. This work firmly establishes the soliton concept as necessary for treating the propagation of shallow-water waves of moderate amplitude in a low-dissipation environment.
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Method for Solving the Korteweg-deVries Equation
Clifford S. Gardner, J. M. Greene, Martin D. Kruskal et al. · Physical Review Letters · 1967 · 4.6K citations