Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread Cloth

Abstract

ments, including Abonnema, Bakana, Sangama, Teinma, Tombia, Soku, and Degema. This paper will describe a particular imported cloth with openwork designs worn by the Kalabari people, analyze its use, and expand on the concept of cultural authentication as it applies to this openwork textile.1 Imported lightweight gingham and madras cotton cloths, commonly called George in many parts of southern Nigeria and injiri by the Kalabari, are highly esteemed and worn by both Kalabari men and women as wrappers. The cloths of interest here are a variety of gingham and multicolored madras, often with subdued backgrounds of indigo, black, violet, brown, and sometimes red or orange, on which local craftswomen have imposed another design by cutting threads and removing them (Fig. 1). Wrappers made from such cloth are generally worn during ceremonial occasions, and women also wear them as fashionable attire (Fig. 3). Women artisans create the new de-