Physical Review Letters · 2007 · 112 citations · 23 references
We present an experimental study of the statistics of surface gravity wave turbulence in a flume of a horizontal size 12 x 6 m. For a wide range of amplitudes the wave energy spectrum was found to scale as Eomega approximately omega(-nu) in a frequency range of up to one decade. However, nu appears to be nonuniversal: it depends on the wave intensity and ranges from about 6 to 4. We discuss our results in the context of existing theories and argue that at low wave amplitudes the wave statistics is affected by the flume finite size, and at high amplitudes the wave breaking effect dominates.
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The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves
O. M. Phillips · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 1958 · 699 citations