Runup of nonlinearly deformed waves on a coast

Abstract

The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of\nthe rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel\nmoment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope\nsteepness exceeds the back slope steepness. It is shown that the runup height\ngrowth with increase of the face slope steepness meanwhile the rundown\ncharacteristics are weakly depend from the face slope steepness. These results\nexplain why the tsunami waves with steep front (as during the 2004 tsunami in\nthe Indian Ocean) penetrate inland on large distances to compare with wave with\nsymmetrical shape.\n